January 20, 2023

Creating a modern Heirloom: The jouney of a bespoke diamond ring

Tsavorite and diamond engagement ring

Creating modern heirlooms is as much about the journey as it is the finished piece. Beyond the rarity and meticulous craft inlaid within each piece it is the story behind the jewels and the meaning to the wearer that define the real value of any creation.

Here is the story behind the creation...

Design conceptualisation

As with many of our designs, inspiration is primarily taken from the natural world. This creation is no different and the tessalating shapes and leaf like silhoutettes pay hommage to flourishing flora.

Starting out with various pencil based forays a design and stone formation is slowly arrived at. Once fixed on a precise design the sketch can be drawn in an architetural like manner building the foundation from which colours can be added.

A pencil drawing of a bespoke engagement ring

Once the sketch is complete the gouache render work may begin to provide a lifelike "realness" to an entirely conceptual design. The smallest splash of colour brings even the most minimalist of desgins to life and the lushious green of the Tsavorite garnet adds a fresh organic feel to a creation designed to be enjoyed through generations.

Painting a bespoke engagement ring design

Selecting the diamonds and gemstones

An ethos centred around "stone led design" (the process of crafting jewellery around the unique properties and personality of a specific diamond or gemstone) dictates that the selection of a specific feature stone is the primary step.

In this instance, a 1.50ct D colour pear cut natural white diamond. The bright white colour and exceptional cut result in a mesmerisingly bright specimen. The stone, of Botswana origin, will be the centre piece around which the rest of the ring is created.

Achieving precision through technical design

The first step in the creation process is for a three dimensional laser scan to be taken of the feature stone. Doing so enables a precise render to be used as part of the design engineering.

The design technician slowly builds up the specific components around the feature stone ensuring that the metal work is entirely proportional, the diamonds and gems will sit level and facilitating the optimal flow of light (thus showcasing the stones maximum potential).

From here it is possible to calculate the precise measurements required from the marquise shaped stones that adorn the centre piece.

CAD design for a bespoke diamond engagement ring

Elegance every step of the journey

Only through a process that marries best in class modern technology with traditional craftsmanship can a truly refined heirloom be created.

The laser like precision in the casting of individual components prior to assembly ensures the optimal flow of light. Whilst the traditional craft of filing and polishing in every nook and cranny ensures refined clean edges, creating a truly elegant design.

The penultimate stage of the technical creation (ahead of polishing, QC checks and hallmarking) is the setting of the diamonds & gemstones.

A perfect setting (one that allows the optimal flow of light with the minimal amount of metal yet total security) is only achievable if every component has been crafted with total precision prior to this stage.

The slightest error at any stage in the creation will simply be compounded as we move through each phase.

The completed heirloom suite

The final creation is a masterpiece, designed to be cherished through generations and encapsulating some of lifes greatest memories. A level of craftsmanship that would stand up to the greatest level of scrutiny even through the lense of a microscope has been achieved (how our QC checks are performed).

As is the case with all our Signature & Heirloom creations the final piece is accompanied by a bespoke suede bound folder. Enclosed within the suede folders, which are crafted by hand in the english borders, sits the a one of a kind gouache design.

Painted by hand and specific to the creation there is only ever one of these paintings that exists - it is a nod to the artistry involved in the creation of any piece and something that can be cherised forever (most likely framed on a wall)...

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